AJ DeRosa's Wildlife Snowshoe Adventures

Why Wooden Snowshoes?

In our modern, high tech age it is sometimes nice to look back at traditional materials and craftsmanship. Since Wooden Boat River Tours has been using traditional frame built wooden drift boats for the past 30 years it seems only natural that we would favor the wood and rawhide snowshoe. Like our drift boats, they do demand a bit of annual maintenance, but we think it is well worth the effort. Once you experience their performance on the snow we are sure you will agree.

Snowshoes have been around for over 2,000 years and until very recently they were all made of woven branches or wood and hide. The people who crossed the land bridge between Asia and North America used snowshoes. More recently the indigenous tribes of North America used snowshoes. If fact many of the different styles of snowshoes are still referred to by the names of the tribes who developed them, such as the Michigan, Huron and Ojibwa. During the 1800’s French and American trappers made use of the Indian’s ingenious device for walking on the deep, light snow that fell in the prime fur trapping area of the Intermountain West. Snowshoes evolved into many shapes and sizes dependent upon the tasks for which they were used. Beaver trappers working in dense willow thickets favored a short but very wide shoe known as a Bear Paw. When the task was hauling heavy loads across long, flat expanses the much longer and narrower Alaskan style shoe was favored. As is usually the case form was determined by function.

When it comes to hiking through the flat Cottonwood bottoms along the Snake River the Alaskan style shoe is our choice. It tracks well and will float a heavy load even in light powder snow. We also like the Huron style that is a bit shorter but wider in the front.

What about these Toboggans?

Since we must haul all of our supplies and equipment over snow to our camp in winter we needed a good sturdy sled. Luckily we found these Swedish mountain rescue toboggans and they fit our needs perfectly. Once again old world craftsmanship and traditional materials have produced a wonderful and lasting piece. These toboggans were built in the 40’s, just like me, and still running. Strap a kid’s car seat onto one of these beauties and the little guys get to come along with us.

A Teepee in the Winter

Any way you look at it, a Teepee is a beautiful thing. A bundle of sticks and canvas, a simple portable shelter or a brilliantly engineered architectural wonder, the teepee is all of the above. Imagine a fabric structure that is warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Because of the ingenious design of combining cover and liner a natural chimney effect draws warm air to the top of the structure. This allows you to build a fire on the floor, or in our case in a wood stove, to produce heat for warmth and cooking. The smoke rises and exits through adjustable smoke flaps. With a fire crackling in the wood stove we can raise the temperature in our teepee to 35 degrees above outside air temperature.

Unlike other fabric shelters that would collapse under the heavy snow loads of our mountain environment, the steep sides of the teepee naturally shed snow. Even after a heavy snowfall our teepee is standing tall.

Fun For All

A winter adventure is fun for all. What little kid, or big kid for that matter, doesn’t like playing in the snow? These little girls rode in on their car seats strapped to one of our toboggans. Are we having fun yet? Just ask the kid on skis.

These big kids are having fun too. They are standing beside the river at “campfire point”. Sitting around a roaring campfire is a great place to watch the sun set as it lights up the Tetons in alpenglow. Imagine sitting here as the full moon rises over the Gros Ventre Mountains. River Otter often use the point just opposite our campfire site.

Wildlife

As we hike into the Cottonwood forest we become aware of the silence surrounding us. The crunch of our snowshoes on dry powder snow is all we hear. Soon we are in the middle of a black and white photograph. The white of winter’s snow and grey trunks and branches of cottonwood trees are all we can see. Color has vanished, so has the horizon and any sense of direction. Soon we see animal tracks in the snow. A Red Squirrel leaves a dotted line as it hops between tree trunks. A double set of very deep tracks follows a now dry flood channel. Closer inspection reveals the print of a dewclaw behind the hoof print. These are the tracks of a cow and calf moose. The slow plodding Porcupine plows a shallow trench as it moves from tree to tree.

After a short hike we hear the sound of rushing water and the dense trees give way to the open views of the Snake River. To the north we can see the Tetons towering above the valley. As we approach the edge of the riverbank a pair of Trumpeter Swans explode from a quiet eddy. They run across the surface of the water on black webbed feet larger than a man’s hand, their huge white wings beating loudly as they gain speed. Suddenly all goes quite as the graceful birds take to the air. Now only their trumpeting sounds can be heard. The swans spook a flock of Goldeneye ducks and for a moment the sky is filled with flying waterfowl.

As we continue our hike along the river we spot a coyote track a few feet from the waters edge. The track is straight and the coyote’s gait is steady. This track shows purpose and conservation of energy. In his search for food the coyote is an effective predator as well as scavenger. A half a mile ahead of us we spot a Bald Eagle perched on a cottonwood branch. He’s eyeing a pair of Mallard ducks across the river. As we approach the eagle swoops toward the Mallards but they flush well ahead of him and they go their separate ways.

Winter Scenery

The Teton Range is to the north with the Grand Teton at 13,700ft.rising 7,000 above the valley. From our vantage point at the mouth of Taylor Creek we can see the entire southern portion of the range all the way to Teton Pass. The road cut through Mount Glory is visible to the west. To the east we see part of the Gross Ventre Range and Leeks Canyon that is the back of Snow King Mountain. As we look down river to the south the gentle flanks of Munger Mountain come to view.

Jackson Hole is famous for it’s spectacular mountain scenery. Snow covered peaks and brilliant blue winter skies add another dimension to the breathtaking views that surround us along the river. The Snake River flows inky black against the snow covered river bottom. Colorful cobblestones can be seen in the crystal clear water at our snow shoed feet. Along the edge of the river are ice shelves, their edges showing intricate filigree caused by the splashing of the current. Out here in the bright sun the snow looks like it is covered by millions of sparkling diamonds. On closer inspection we see the many fragile flakes of frost called surface hor that form on the snow during periods of high pressure.

Just ahead there are several sets of Elk tracks leading from the river. The same tracks are on the opposite side of the river. A small herd of Elk crossed the river here last night. The tracks head west into a stand of spruce near a spring creek. We might catch a glimpse of them on our way back later this afternoon.

Just around the bend we spot the top of a teepee, a wisp of white smoke curling from the top. This is a welcome and inviting sight. Images of warm drinks and a cozy fire come to mind. But just before we get to the teepee we come upon a very curious sight. Here in the river, in a back eddy where the current gently swirls is a large ice merry-go –‘round. The large disc of ice has been swirling around and occasionally scraping against the slushy ice of the back eddy. This perpetual motion machine is something that will never be seen by the many visitors who float the river in the summer. In fact it will disappear when the temperatures rise into the 30’s. We can only marvel at this unique natural phenomenon.

The morning has been fun. We’ve seen some interesting things and are getting a feel for walking on snowshoes. It’s good fun to make your own trail in the light powder snow. But it’s lunchtime now so let’s head into the teepee and get a hot drink and a bite to eat.

This Teepee is a good idea!

As we approach the teepee it becomes apparent that this is the real thing. The canopy in front of the door acts as a mudroom and keeps the doorway free of snow. Outside is a woodpile and chopping block. One of the wooden toboggans is leaned against a rail. We take off our snowshoes and stand them in the snow. As we step into the teepee we are struck with how big it is. This is a 24’ teepee with over 400 square feet of usable space. A fire is crackling in the wood stove and it is very comfortable. The futons and chairs are covered with blankets and pillows. There is more than enough room for our group

of 8 people. In addition to all of the comfortable seating there is a full kitchen where the cook is preparing lunch. Hot chocolate and tea are served. On the stove is a big pot of homemade soup and sandwiches are being prepared on a grill. The cook tells us that they also serve dinner. The most popular time for dinner trips is during the full moon. Snowshoeing through the forest in moonlight must be wonderful.

After lunch we get back into our snowshoes and head out along a spring creek. The walk back to the cars from the teepee is shorter than this morning’s walk. If we’re lucky we might spot those Elk that came across the river last night.

Winter Float Trips

Since 1978 we have been floating the Snake River in hand crafted wooden drift boats. We know this section of river and it’s many meandering side channels intimately. We have floated it during the floods of spring runoff as well as the low water of early spring and late fall. Since we began our winter snowshoe trips it was only natural that we thought of floating in the winter as well. Since the normal boat ramps are deep in snow the use of wooden dories is not possible but small inflatable rafts are easily slid over the snow to the river’s edge. Each raft will comfortably accommodate 2 guests. Of course weather plays a big part in winter floating but most sunny days will be very comfortable.

February and March offer the best chance for mild sunny afternoons that are just right to spend a few hours on the river. Every season offers something special for the river floater. A winter float offers wildlife viewing and solitude that cannot be experienced in any other season.

Winter Fishing

The waters of the Snake River are now open to catch and release fishing the entire year. Our Winter Camp affords us access to many miles of prime fishing water. On warm afternoons in late winter Cutthroat Trout and Rocky Mountain Whitefish can be seen rising to Midges and small Mayflies. The window of opportunity is short, usually just a few hours, but the fishing can be spectacular during that time. Our snowshoes give us the perfect approach vehicle during this time. Wading shoes fit easily into snowshoe bindings and allow us to cover even more water than we could during summer when we must stumble along over river cobble. Like winter floating this a weather dependent event but a very unique experience when conditions are right.

Your Hosts

AJ DeRosa has been a river guide and outfitter since 1973. He is the owner/operator of Wooden Boat River Tours. During his 30+ years in the guiding business he has worked in Argentina, where he established the first ever float fishing operation, Chile, Alaska, Montana, Wyoming and Yellowstone National Park. In 2005 he retired from a 27 year career as a ski patrolman at Snow King Mountain (5 years) and the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort(22 years). He began honing his outdoor skills as a camp counselor/canoe guide in the Boundary Waters of Minnesota at the age of 16. A lifetime in the outdoors has given him a great appreciation for the natural world and a practical knowledge of the flora and fauna of the riparian habitat of Jackson Hole. In his other life he plays jazz saxophone and is a life long Cubs fan.

Carole-Malia Schneider has lived in Jackson Hole since 1992. During the summer she is the owner/operator of The Mansion Garden, a well-respected gardening service in Jackson Hole. Not only does she have a green thumb but also a keen eye for design, which can be seen in the furnishings inside the teepee. Her other life is filled with cooking, reading, skiing and bird hunting with her dog Cosmo.